August is made for cooking outside. Ibérico presa, cooked hard and fast, sliced pink against the grain next to a raw hispi slaw sharp with Chardonnay vinegar. Carabineros split and charred, the heads squeezed for every last drop. Dry-aged steaks resting while the Delicatesse potatoes crisp in the fat. And beside all of it, no cooking at all — Marmande tomatoes still warm from the sun with Jamón Ibérico and a good pour of Acanto oil, a board of Salchichón and Brun de Noix, a bowl of cornichons. Smoke, salt, ripe tomatoes and evenings that are in no hurry to end — this is exactly what we want to be eating right now.

On the wine: the Château Roubine rosé is where to start — pale, dry and cold, right for the tomatoes, the charcuterie and the carabineros. Two whites hold their own alongside anything from the sea, the Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre and the William Fèvre Chablis, both crisp and mineral. And for the fire — the presa and the dry-aged steaks — we recommend a red full of ripe fruit: the Ham Factory Ribera del Duero or the DAOU Cabernet Sauvignon.

IN SEASON NOW

It has been a hot, dry summer here and hotter still across Europe — England's warmest June on record, and real heat through France, Spain and Italy. For a kitchen, that has made some things difficult and others very good.

Stone fruit has ripened early and fast. The heat pulls peaches, apricots and cherries forward and shortens the window they're at their best, so the season is early and fragile — the good fruit doesn't hang about, and we're buying little and often. Some hardier fruits, like Charantais Melons, are some of the best we have seen for years.

Girolles have found it harder, but are improving now. They want warmth and moisture together, and this summer has given the warmth without the rain. However, the quality is getting better week-by-week and we only select the best.

What the heat suits, it suits well. Marmande tomatoes have loved the sun, and the flavour shows it. Summer truffles are plentiful and eating very well.

INSPIRATION

Ibérico presa over hot coals, sliced across the grain, with a raw hispi and Cévennes onion slaw dressed in Chardonnay vinegar and Acanto oil.

Summer truffle shaved over scrambled eggs or fresh fettuccine, with butter, Parmigiano and seasoning.

Marmande tomatoes on grilled bruschetta with Jamón Ibérico, good olive oil and salt.

Scottish girolles fried hard in butter, alongside a dry-aged steak.